Lugu Lake, a secret place in southwest China, is the only Mosuo settlement in China that retains the tradition of matrilineal society.
It is located at the junction of Yanyuan County, Liangshan Prefecture, Sichuan Province and Ninglang County, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province, and is a piece of “plateau sapphire” surrounded by the goddess mountain.
Table of Contents
Natural wonders: masterpieces of earth and time
Geological Epic
About 1.5 million years ago, crustal movement tore up the earth, forming Lugu Lake, the boundary lake between Sichuan and Yunnan provinces.
The deepest part of the lake reaches 93 meters and is as transparent as a mirror, which is regarded as “the tears of the goddess Gem” by the locals.
The lake is 2,690 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, among which the Goddess Gem Mountain (Lion Mountain) is 3,754 meters above sea level, which is the sacred mountain in the hearts of Mosuo people.
Ecological diversity
Lugu Lake is divided into two parts: the “Grass Sea” and the “Bright Sea”:
Grass Sea: the reeds on the east side of the lake are like a golden carpet, with the Wedding Bridge spanning it, and the reeds swaying in the fall, which is a dating place for the Mosuo youth.
Bright Sea: the west side of the lake is crystal clear, with white “watery poplar flowers” (wave leaf cauliflower) floating on the lake surface, blooming from June to October every year, just like the starry sky sprinkled.
Astronomical value
Due to the minimal light pollution, Lugu Lake is listed as a “global observation point for astronomy enthusiasts”.
At night, you can clearly see the core of the Milky Way, and some lodges provide professional telescope rental services.
Matriarchal Culture: Demystifying the Daily Life in the “Daughter Country
Social Structure
The Mosuo people practise a matrilineal family system:
Grandmothers are in charge of the family, and property is inherited by women.
Men are called “Azhu” and women are called “Axia”. Relationships are established through “walking marriages”, where the man visits the woman’s home at night and returns to the mother’s home early the next morning.
System of “go-go” marriages
The “go-marriage” system is not arbitrary, but is based on emotional choice.
Couples meet through songs and dances, and the man is recognized by the woman’s family.
The children are raised by the mother’s family and the father is responsible but not required to live together.
Daba Religion
The original religion of the Mosuo people, Dabaism, is a belief in the existence of spirits in all things:
The Daba (priest) communicates with the spirits through oral chanting and divination, and the scriptures are recorded in 32 pictographs.
Important ceremonies include “mountain god worship,” “exorcism,” and “bar mitzvah,” and visitors can participate in some of the non-private activities.
Architecture and Lifestyle: Living Traditions
Wooden houses
Traditional Mosuo houses are built with round logs, without nails, and are warm in winter and cool in summer:
Fire Pit: The fire pit in the center of the house stays lit 24 hours a day and is the core of family deliberations and heating.
Flower House: a two-story house for young and strong women to go out with their “Ajiao”, with windows facing the lake.
Modern Fusion
Heterogeneous Living Inn: The grandmother’s room has been transformed into a panoramic glass room where you can lie in bed at night and watch the stars.
And Man Holiday Hotel: offers private hot springs and lake view rooms, designed to blend Mosuo elements with modern comforts.
In-depth experience: live like a local
Cultural Immersion
Weaving Flower Belt: Learn to weave walking wedding tokens with colorful silk threads, which takes 3-5 hours.
Stuffing Bam Wine: Use barley and corn to make the traditional drink of Mosuo people, the alcohol content is about 18 degrees.
A Rub Dance: Participate in the bonfire party and learn the Mosuo collective dance, which is simple and easy to learn.
Lugu Lake on the tongue
Stone Pot Fish: Split-bellied fish stewed in a soapstone pot with wild mushrooms such as matsutake and chanterelle.
Pork Fat: Whole hind leg of a pig marinated for more than 3 years with amber-colored fat, sliced and served raw or roasted.
Stewed Chicken with Matsutake Mushrooms: a signature dish of “A-ma’s Mushroom Garden” in Landlady Village, served with wild pepper dipping sauce.
Starry Sky Ceremony
Transparent kayaking: Paddle to the center of the lake at night and lie down to see the Milky Way reflecting on the surface of the lake.
Professional stargazing: some B&Bs provide astronomical instructors to guide you and take photos of star trails.
Practical Information: Planning Your Cultural Journey
Transportation
Departure from Lijiang: 4 hours’ drive, it is recommended to charter a bus or take the scenic area through train (RMB 80/person).
Departure from Xichang: 5 hours’ drive, passing through the apple orchards in Yanyuan County (available for picking in September-October).
Aviation: There are a few flights from Lugu Lake Airport in Nyingchi, which need to be booked in advance.
Recommended Accommodation
Luxury Choice: And Man Holiday Hotel (Lake View Room + Private Hot Spring, about RMB 1,500/night).
People’s B&B: Sycamore Mountain and Sea Affairs (Designer remodeled old Mosuo mansion, about RMB 800/night).
Cost-effective king: Heterogeneous Life Inn (lake view room from 300 RMB, including breakfast).
Festivals
Mountain and Sea Turning Festival (July 15 of the lunar calendar): 10,000 people nail rubbing dance, Mosuo people in full costume to sacrifice the god of the mountain.
Lama Festival (the first day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar): Zamei Temple sunshine Buddha ceremony, lasting 3 days.
Chengding Ceremony (12th month of the lunar calendar): 13-year-olds hold a coming-of-age ceremony, which can be observed.
Travel Ethics: Respect and Protection
Cultural Awareness Test: Before participating in the home visit, you need to pass a simple question and answer session covering Mosuo taboos and etiquette.
Shopping tips: Ask for the “Mosuo Cultural Association Certificate” to avoid buying poor quality silver jewelry.
Environmental requirements: swimming in the lake is prohibited, and garbage should be taken away from the scenic area.
The beauty of Lugu Lake lies not only in the landscape, but also in the diversity of human culture.
Here, time seems to stand still, and the sound of grandmother’s silver jewelry clashing, the crackling of the fire pit, and the paddling of the pig-trough boat together compose an epic poem that has not been interrupted by modern civilization.
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